You Don’t Need a Dog Dryer for Your Pomeranian (Here’s What We Use Instead)
If you’ve been researching dryers for Pomeranian grooming, you’ve probably come across high-velocity dog dryers — purpose-built tools that run anywhere from $60 to $300 and are marketed specifically for double-coated breeds.
We looked at them too. And then we realized we already owned something that works just as well.
We use the Shark FlexStyler, a human hair dryer, on high airflow with cool or low heat. That’s it. No separate dog dryer on the shelf, no extra tool to store, no additional purchase.
Here’s why it works, how we use it, and the one thing you should never skip after bathing a Pomeranian regardless of what dryer you use.
Why You Can’t Skip Drying a Pomeranian After a Bath
A Pomeranian will not dry on their own after a full bath. The double coat — dense undercoat beneath a longer outer coat — traps moisture close to the skin where it can’t evaporate on its own.
Air drying after a bath:
Traps moisture in the undercoat
Creates the conditions for hidden mat formation
Softens and collapses coat structure
Can cause skin irritation
Drying isn’t an optional step. It’s the most important step.
On Dog-Specific High-Velocity Dryers
Purpose-built dog dryers do work well. Professional groomers use them for good reason. The concentrated high-velocity airflow separates the undercoat efficiently and speeds up drying on heavily coated breeds.
But for at-home use on a single Pomeranian, they’re a significant investment for a tool with one job.
If you already own a high-velocity personal hair dryer, use it. If you’re considering buying one specifically for a Pomeranian, we’d suggest trying what we use first.
What We Actually Use: The Shark FlexStyler
The Shark FlexStyler has several settings that could work for Pomeranians: cool shot, no heat, and low heat. We use the highest airflow setting, which is what matters most for a Pomeranian coat, and whichever heat setting is most comfortable for the dog. Low heat dries the fastest. Cool shot works fine and is the gentlest option.
The key is airflow, not heat. Heat is what damages a Pomeranian’s coat and can irritate their skin. A human hair dryer on high air and low or no heat delivers the same coat-separating effect as a dog dryer without the risk.
Beignet has been blow-dried since his first professional grooms, so he’s fully comfortable with it. He has a side he favors, so we start there. If your Pomeranian is new to the dryer, short positive sessions before bath day help build tolerance before you need it to actually count.
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How to Dry a Pomeranian After a Bath
This is the full post-bath sequence we use. The dryer is only one part of it. What you do before and during drying matters as much as the tool itself.
Towel press first. Press (don’t rub) the coat with a towel to remove surface moisture. Rubbing creates friction that tangles the coat before you’ve even started.
Put a towel down on the surface. If you’re using a bathroom counter, a towel gives traction so the dog feels stable and doesn’t spend the whole session trying to find their footing.
Mist with conditioning spray before you begin. Even after a bath, a light mist of conditioning spray before drying reduces friction and breakage as you work through the coat.
Have a partner hold and position the dog. One person manages the dryer, one manages the dog. This is the single biggest practical difference between a smooth session and a chaotic one. Beignet is calm about it, but he still has a preferred side and needs repositioning as you move through sections.
Dry while line brushing. Work section by section with your slicker brush, lifting the coat from the skin upward as you dry. This is what separates the undercoat, restores lift, and prevents damp pockets near the skin. And it speeds up the session significantly.
Check with the comb when done. Run your greyhound comb through the coat to confirm everything is dry and fully brushed through. If it catches, there’s still damp or compacted undercoat to work through.
The full session takes longer than most people expect the first time. Once it’s part of the routine, it becomes efficient.
Which Heat Setting to Use
The FlexStyler gives you a few different options:
Cool shot: no heat, gentlest on the coat and skin. Works well for dogs who are sensitive or still getting used to the dryer.
No heat: room temperature airflow. A middle ground.
Low heat: dries the fastest. What we typically use once Beignet is settled into the session.
We don’t use the medium or high heat settings. Pomeranian coats and skin are sensitive to heat, and the airflow, not the warmth, is what does the actual work of separating and drying the undercoat. When in doubt, use cool or low.
Where This Fits in the Full Grooming Routine
Drying is one piece of a complete at-home grooming system. Here’s how it connects to everything else:
Before the bath: Brush thoroughly with a long-pin slicker brush. Bathing a coat with existing tangles sets them deeper.
During the bath: Use a lightweight conditioner, not a heavy cream. Pomeranian coats need lift, not weight.
After the bath: Towel press, mist, and dry completely while line brushing. This is the session.
To confirm it worked: The greyhound comb. If it glides to the skin without catching, you’re done.
For the full picture on bathing frequency and what protects the coat long-term, the Pomeranian bathing guide covers everything before the dryer comes out. And if you want to see how the full grooming tool kit fits together, that’s the place to start.
The Short Version
You don’t need a dedicated dog dryer. You need high airflow, low or no heat, a conditioning mist, a long-pin slicker brush, and ideally a second set of hands.
The Shark FlexStyler handles the airflow. The rest is technique.
A Pomeranian dried correctly after a bath will have a coat that’s lifted, airy, and free of damp pockets near the skin, which is exactly what protects it until the next groom.
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